Friday, June 25, 2010

Recap of the Moment: Skinned!

Ed. Note: I added a survey tab just for you, dear readers! The first one's me. Enjoy!





Cropped tops from Frankie Morello, Calvin Klein; Dolce & Gabbana's manties; Bottega Veneta; Frankie Morello's beach set

It's too soon to predict a mass following, but runways in Milan have an obsession with flaunting some skin. And we're talking about the guys here.

Cropped is the mot du jour at
Calvin Klein where Italo Zucchelli made clear that serious abs are the newest accessory for Spring. He has revived the chopped T-shirt since.

For the venerable British label,
Burberry, it's more about mesh shirts paired with a jacket (motorcycle, trench, blazer). It's very military, but it also has that party boy playing peekaboo feeling.

Of course, man-cleavage a.k.a. heavage is taking full force.
Bottega Veneta did an easy, breezy, slouchy take on that. Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana is going for manties, and Frankie Morello focused on beachwear--and an arguably not-even-close-to-a-T-shirt shirt.

Ladies, if next Spring isn't your season, I don't know what is! Drool for more at GQ.com. And a note, please take these trends with a pinch (or gallon) of salt.


Images from nymag.com

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Redux of the Moment: Man-Tights



Looks from Rad Hourani, Givenchy and Emporio Armani

A couple of months ago, I reported about one peculiar trend in menswear--tights. It's safe to say that it won't be waning any time soon. Fashion heavywieght Givenchy paraded men in tights for Fall 2010 (paired with man-sandals and sporty coats), and up-and-coming designer Rad Hourani gave an even further pushing of the stretchy bottom (replete with man-heels, 3-inch man-heels to be exact).

More shocking is its resurgence in
Emporio Armani's fetish-cum-neo-Fascist themed Spring 2011 show. Is this one trend you're willing to look forward to? More importantly, should it be paired with shorts or nothing at all?

To check out more of Spring 2011 menswear, go to NYMag.com

Images from nymag.com

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Cheat Sheet of the Moment: Prada Spring-Summer 2011


Prada is the fashion industry's trend barometer. Editors, critics and buyers use the label (along with other favorites like Balenciaga) to indicate the industry's direction.

If you want to hone your divining skills in fashion and particularly menswear, look no further than Miuccia Prada's quirky collegiate intellectualism. Study these looks for future refere
nce:




1.
Scrubs: Looking clinical is now cool, sorta. As Kevin from MY MANy BAGS pointed, Miuccia may be a Scrubs fan too!



2. Sole stacking: An inch or two of espadrille and rubber will take men to new heights. This could be a trickle effect from womenswear's long-time trend, the vertiginous (and often dangerous) platform heels.



3. Reflective sunglasses: The collection may leave you pining for medical school (or any school for that matter), but these sporty shades add brawn to the brain.



4. Baggy shorts and trousers: A return to a fuller silhouette down there is imminent. But don't fear; Miuccia added ultraslim fitted pants just in case.

Sure enough, some looks will make you wince. Some of them, I admit, are dorky and a little too scholastic (read: nerdy). But in my books,
Prada will always get an A+ in moving the eye forward.

Images except topmost from gq.com; topmost screenshot of prada.com

Friday, June 18, 2010

Highlight of the Moment: Jil Sander Spring-Summer 2011




Resort/Cruise 2011 is wrapping up this week, and starting tomorrow is the men's Spring-Summer 2011 show in Milan. What better way to incite a major dose of high fashion than Jil Sander!

Designer Raf Simons gave way to color palettes not traditional to the sober label: hot pink, mandarin, electric blue, rose, etc. To get a full picture of
the collection's key looks, just imagine a male, unadorned Whitney Port--thigh skimming short-shorts and belted and oversized jackets are the hot items. But staying true to the Jil Sander aesthetic, construction and detailing are still at its heart. (Look at the soles of the shoes!)

Watch the full show at Jil Sander's webfeed. Make sure you check out the model slip on 1:45!

Video via bryanboy.com

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Dichotomy of the Moment: Authenticity v. Novelty


Men and women have different styles. It's true in real life and it's true in the runways. Oftentimes, menswear leans toward authenticity while womenswear to novelty.

Men's collections are rife with authentic, classic styles. No matter the season, menswear sees the steady stream of trouser, shirt and jacket ensemble without fail. Just witness Tom Ford and Simon Spurr's collections.

Of course, menswear experiences trends too. But the major difference is their reception. If there ever is a surge of trends from the runways (like Thom Browne's shrunken suits or Burberry's drop crotch trousers), it wouldn't really matter because the majority of men don't buy into them. Consequently, a man's wardrobe doesn't really age.

On the other hand, women receive a flurry of short-lived trends from designers on a seasonal basis. It's de rigueur that womenswear is accompanied by fantasy, shock and almost outlandish styles and trends. In women's fashion, novelty is key.

But with novelty comes an almost instantaneous expiration date. The androgynous power shoulders, a massive success on the Fall 2009 runways, is as perfect example. The fickle taste of fashion turned this two-time hit (it happened in the 80's) to a miss with a flick of a manicured finger.

This "new, now, next" mentality that designers create spur the desire for women to be fashion-forward. Naturally, this incessant preoccupation comes with a hefty price. Paying the credit card bill is just one of them.

Image from net-a-porter.com via fashiontribes.typepad.com